Hærvejen: Denmark's ancient pilgrim road in Jutland

Hærvejen is one of Denmark’s great pilgrim routes, and for me it is one of the most beautiful places to walk in the whole country. The route follows the ancient road that for centuries ran through Jutland, the mainland peninsula of Denmark, along the watershed where travellers, pilgrims and traders could move with dry feet. Today it has become a continuous walking route of around 275 to 290 kilometres, and it still carries its history in every footstep.

When I walk on Hærvejen, I feel some of the same calm as on the Camino in Spain. There is the same rhythm, the same long horizon and the same feeling of being a small part of a very old story. Here I share what the route is, how it is divided up, and how to get the most out of the trip.

What is Hærvejen?

Hærvejen, sometimes translated as the Army Road or the Ancient Road, is the name of the old road that ran down the ridge of Jutland. The name covers several tracks that have woven in and out of each other over time, but the basic idea is the same. Travellers followed the high, dry ground where it was easiest to move forward, avoiding the wide river valleys and the wet meadows.

The road has been used by cattle drovers, traders, armies and pilgrims. The pilgrims are the reason the route is often called a Danish Camino today. Many walked along Hærvejen on their way out into Europe, onwards to the great pilgrim destinations, and some all the way to Santiago de Compostela.

Today Hærvejen is signposted as a modern walking and cycling route. You follow a yellow pilgrim symbol and good markings, and you can walk the whole route in one go or split it into smaller trips over several seasons.

How long is Hærvejen, and where does it go?

The walking route runs around 275 to 290 kilometres. Most people walk from Viborg heading south and finish at the border around Padborg. Along the way there are both eastern and western alternative sections on some stretches, and that is one of the reasons the total length varies a little from map to map.

You choose the direction yourself. Some prefer to walk from north to south with the border as their goal, while others turn it around. There is no right or wrong, and the landscape is beautiful both ways.

Here is a rough overview of the route from north to south:

The numbers are approximate and should be read as a guide rather than a fixed answer. If you choose the eastern branch in one place and the western in another, the total distance shifts a little.

Stages and pace

I like to set my own pace, and that goes for Hærvejen too. If you walk around 20 to 25 kilometres a day, the whole route takes around 12 to 14 days. If you would rather have short days and plenty of time to look at churches, burial mounds and nature, you can stretch the trip over several weeks or split it into pieces.

Some of the things I love most along the way:

• The old Hærvejen inns, where you can get a meal and rest your legs
• The heathland that opens up and brings an enormous calm
• The many springs, river valleys and rolling hills of central Jutland
• The historical traces, from burial mounds to old stone bridges across the streams

Because the route is so long, most people plan around accommodation. It is a good idea to study the map and set your daily stages so you end up somewhere you can sleep well.

Accommodation along Hærvejen

There are plenty of places to stay along the way, and you can choose the level that suits your trip. Along the route you will find:

• Shelters and simple camping spots for those who want to sleep close to nature
• Hostels
• Inns, hotels and bed and breakfasts
• Campsites

If you want to travel light and cheap, you can combine shelters with the occasional night under a roof. If you would rather have a bed and a hot shower every evening, that works too, but then it is wise to book well in advance in high season.

Is Hærvejen hard to walk?

The terrain is soft and typically Jutlandic. There are no mountains, but there are long days, and the weather can change quickly. After rain some paths can be wet and muddy, so a good pair of hiking boots and sensible rain gear make a big difference.

The route is well signposted, and with a map or a good app in your back pocket few people get lost. The biggest challenge is usually endurance over many days in a row rather than the terrain itself. That makes it a fine route to train up for if you want to walk it in one go.

Hærvejen as a pilgrim route

For me, Hærvejen is more than a walking route. It is a pilgrim route with deep history, and it is becoming more and more popular among people who want to try a Camino without travelling far. You can get a Danish pilgrim passport and collect stamps along the way, just like on the Camino in Spain, and many use the trip to switch off completely from everyday life.

If you want to read more about the Danish pilgrim network and the other routes, I have gathered them all in my overview of Danish Camino routes. If the coast calls you more, take a look at Gendarmstien in southern Jutland, another of my Danish favourites. And if you are curious about the cycling event that shares the landscape, I have written about the Hærvejen Race separately.

Hærvejen is a trip I always recommend. It is long enough to give you the true pilgrim feeling, and at the same time it is right outside the door. Lace up your boots, follow the yellow symbol, and let the old road carry you through Jutland.