The ways to Santiago
Gentler climbs, coastal variants and a milder introduction to the Camino.
Starts in Lisbon or Porto, Portugal
The Portugués is the second most walked Camino and the kindest on the legs. Most pilgrims start in Porto and follow either the central route through Barcelos and Ponte de Lima or the coastal variant with the Atlantic for company.
Expect cobbled lanes, vineyards, river crossings and a steady rhythm of towns. It is an excellent first Camino, and the start in Porto fits neatly into a two-week holiday.
We walked the Camino Portugués the summer after our first Camino Francés, and we fell for it straight away. It is the second most walked route in the whole pilgrim network, and more than one in five pilgrims who reach Santiago have walked this one.
Most people start in Porto, as we did, and from here you can choose between the central route in through Barcelos and Ponte de Lima or the coastal route along the Atlantic. We took the central route, but if we had wanted to swim and jump into the sea along the way, the coast would have been the obvious choice. If you start all the way down in Lisbon, the trip becomes around 610 kilometres.
Portugal made a strong impression on us. The country is known for beautiful beaches and a cuisine full of fish and seafood, and the culture carries the mark of the idyllic landscape, where it is hard to be in a bad mood. When we walked the route, we also found that almost everything was cheaper than in Spain, from hostels to food and drink.
The start town on the Douro river with port wine cellars, azulejo tiles and an atmospheric old town. A gem worth an extra day before you set off.
Boardwalks and beach paths along the sea past fishing villages north of Porto. Sea breeze, waves and plenty of chances to jump in the water along the way.
One of Portugal's oldest towns with a long medieval bridge over the Lima river. A classic stop on the central route.
The fortified border town of Valença and the crossing of the Minho river into Spain at the cathedral town of Tui. Here the language and the mood shift.
Into Galicia with green valleys, vines on granite posts and the beautiful estuaries. The last days feel lush and homely.
The Portugués is the kindest on the legs of the big routes. The stages are generally a little shorter than on the Francés, and most days roll gently through vineyards, cobbled towns and along rivers. If you choose the coastal route, you get the sea breeze and flatter stretches too. One thing to be aware of. There are not quite as many hostels as on the French Route, so in high season it pays to arrive early or book ahead. On the other hand, it is easy to combine two short days into one if you want to walk further. It is well signposted, and only inside the towns, especially if you set out in the dark, can it be a little hard to find your way.
The Portugués is an excellent first Camino. It is more manageable than the Francés, and many people take a little over a week's holiday on the route from Porto just to find out whether walking is for them. It is also easier and cheaper to fly to Porto, and you can often fit the whole thing into a two-week holiday. If you like the idea of alternating between charming towns, good food and a dip in the sea, this is your route.
Porto is easy to reach with direct flights or a single stopover from Denmark, and that is one of the reasons so many people start right here. From the airport the metro runs into the centre close to the cathedral, where the route begins. If you start in Lisbon, you fly there and take the train or a flight onward to Porto. Remember to collect your pilgrim passport at the cathedral, so you can gather stamps from the first stage.
Spring and early autumn are ideal. Summer works too, the coastal variant catches the sea breeze, but book beds well ahead in July and August.